Unique Wood Turnings
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From
Log to Bowl
This is an overview and not intended to be a tutorial on techniques! |
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This Mesquite
log has been cut in length according to its largest diameter. Cut lines have been laid out across that diameter so as to yield the largest two bowls from this log. Most of the sapwood, the light rings, will be turned (cut) away. We'll keep a bit of the sapwood for contrast with the darker heartwood. |
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On the Bandsaw, our log is cut in half following the cut lines. |
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Before
drilling, we clamped
our blank
for stability because the bottom of it is round. Then we drill a hole
so it can be mounted on the screw chuck. The blue tape lets us know how deep to go. We've drilled into the flat part because that will be the top, or the open part of the bowl. If we were making a Natural Edge bowl, we would drill into the other side so the bark surface would become the rim which would be irregular and retain the bark on it. |
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Next
we knock
the corners off using a circle cutout as our guide. This is only a
visual guide and we don't want to cut it. Using this 7" guide and staying 1/2" from it, will yield an approximate 8" blank. This step is not essential here but later we would regret not doing it. It quickly brings the bowl blank to round and eliminates a lot of vibration on the lathe. |
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The
bowl blank
is mounted on the lathe using a screw chuck. This is simply a
special screw that goes into the hole we drilled. There are
several other methods available. The tail stock (the part that is sticking into the bark), supports the work from vibration until we don't need it. |
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The
lathe is turning at about 800 RPM. We'll turn the speed up as we round
out the blank and any vibration will give way to balance. Using a bowl gouge we begin to shape the bottom of the bowl. This decides the general shape of the bowl. Here we're using a pull cut until most of the roughing is done. Then we'll switch to a bevel rubbing cut. Let the shavings fly! |
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Most
of the bark has been turned away. We need to get through the softer
sapwood at the foot so when we remount it the chuck grips well. We also don't want too much of the sapwood to remain, just enough for contrast. The large vacuum hose to the left of the tool rest is for dust collection. It is movable so we can reposition it to best suit what we are turning today. |
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The
rough turning is over and the general shape can be seen. The tenon for
remounting in a four jaw chuck, has been formed. It is important to be careful to get a pleasing profile here because once the wood is gone, its gone! It can only get smaller from here. |
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Here
the bowl has been turned around and remounted by the tenon we cut on
the foot or base. The hole left from the screw chuck is a good place to
start cutting. Now we can begin the hollowing. |
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The
lathe is on and turning at about 1200 RPM. Still using the bowl gouge which is producing some nice curlings. Sweeping through the cut and continuing to hollow with subsequent passes. We are only removing about 1/4" of wood per pass because the tenon wasn't real big and we don't want to rip it off the chuck by getting a big catch! |
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As
we make the final passes the cuts are much finer. The shavings are fine
but still curling which tells us we are getting a clean cut. A consistent wall thickness of 1/8" will leave this bowl still usable and not too fragile. Periodic measuring will ensure we get a 'bowl' and not a 'lampshade'! For the purposes of this demonstration we are leaving the dust collection hose to the left. This leaves a pile of shavings to demonstrate the different types of cuts we made. If we moved the hose to the right, all the shavings would be "collected" by the dust collector! |
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The
turning is done for now. We'll sand the inside and outside, then turn
it around to finish the bottom. We got some nice curly shavings because this log was not dried out. The bowl is now thin enough not to crack as it continues to dry and as it is sanded, it will dry it some more. Mesquite is also a very stable wood and does not move much as it dries. |
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Our
bowl has been
remounted
again, so we can finish the foot. The inside of the bowl has been sealed with sanding sealer and sanded to # 1,600 grit. It is being held to a rubber grip on the chuck, by slight pressure from the tail stock. This is not the most secure way but it is OK for light cuts. A jam chuck, plate jaws or a vacuum chuck could also be used here. From here we can flatten the tenon, round it, dovetail, bevel it, or whatever the bowl needs to look good. |
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After
some light finishing cuts, we have a finished foot. A couple
of detail rings are cut in for signature and numbering. All that is left is to sand off the pip. We should sand this off rather than cutting it to avoid distorting or pulling out any of the wood fibers. The finished product is then numbered and signed. |
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This
demonstration has
left out some of the time consuming things like sanding, applying
sanding sealer and actually applying the finish to the bowl. It is just meant to give a fair idea of the process to make a simple bowl. This is the finished bowl with one coat of lacquer finish. It will get eight more. Then it will be buffed and polished. I hope you enjoyed it! |
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| Below
is a turning poem written by
John Styer, AKA The
Lathe-meister. Here is his website. www.lathe-meister.com It is reprinted here with his permission. I think you'll find it humorous. .
How
long does it take to make one of those?
Do you, mean, not plant the tree, but find the wood, just 'see' the piece, (as if I could)? to find a highly figured burl, a crotch, an eye, or curly pearl? And once I spy it, perhaps buy it, inventory, store, and dry it? Then saw or cut it, possibly I kiln it, glue, imbue with fill, or drill it? You mean that once I'm satisfied, it's stopped the warps, checks, cracks, once dried? And mounted on the lathe, to turn it, which takes much practice, just to learn it; and then employ a gouge, or two, or use a skew, which I don't eschew, to mold it, shape it, (what's your pleasure), by all means, I'm sure to measure, then sand it smooth, please wear your mitts, from coarse to fine 10,000 grits, then braze, or burnish, paint, or polish, (the goal: enhance and don't demolish)? Is that your question, start to end, how longs that path, its way to wend? Or do you merely want to know how long it turned? Ten minutes, or so. © John A. Styer, The Lathe-meister |
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